Feline House Soiling Behaviors

72% of cats surrendered to animal shelters are euthanized.

Many of are surrendered because of house-soiling issues. 

 
Feline house-soiling and marking behaviors are some of the most common complaints of modern cat owners. In fact, 66% of owners feel their cats are soiling out of spite. The reasons why a cat may choose to not use the litter box are numerous, which makes tackling the issue seem daunting, but the solution is out there! 

 

Here are the steps your vet will take to help pinpoint and solve the issue:

AAFP and ISFM Guidelines for Diagnosing and Solving House-Soiling Behavior in Cats

1. Take a Patient history. By getting the full history and a timeline of when the issue started we can begin to determine whether there is a medical or behavioral basis for the behavior. We will ask you questions like when the soiling started, where the accidents are occurring, how often it happens, if your cat is using the litter box at all, and if anything changed in your household dynamics or habits.  Noting the ratio between cats and litterboxes, where litterboxes are kept, and where the house-soiling occurs is also helpful. 
   
2. Thorough physical exam to look for medical causes.
   
3.  Additional testing or procedures based on history and exam findings.  Your vet will likely run tests to rule out common medical causes for these behaviors, such as kidney disease, urinary tract infections, and arthritis.
4. Make a Diagnosis. If any abnormalities show up in the labwork, those will be considered first as potential causes. If everything medically checks out, however, a diagnosis of marking behavior can be made.  Cats may mark for various reasons including anxiety, stress, or simply feeling the need to make a “calling card” for other cats.  At this point we consider household interactions and other cats along with any changes in litter boxes or litter, which can cause problems.
5. Treatment - Treatment involves addressing the underlying medical issues as well as tackling the behavioral component. One major consideration is determining your cat's optimal litter box scenario (number, location, size, covered/open, litter, how often the box is cleaned).  According to the AAFP there are five pillars of a healthy feline environment: (1) a safe hideaway place; (2) separate environments for resources (i.e. food,water, play, rest); (3) opportunity for play and predatory behavior; (4) positive and consistent human-cat social interaction; and (5) an environment that respects the importance of the cat’s sense of smell.  Your veterinarian may suggest some of the following: synthetic pheromones, removing negative triggers, using positive reinforcement, or adding medications/nutraceuticals.  It is important to make sure the number of litter boxes is appropriate as well, and that access to the litter box is safe (providing both visual security and separation from other cats).  It is also important to clean any marked areas frequently and thoroughly to discourage remarking.
6. Follow-up - Make sure that the treatment plan is appropriate with regular followup and reevaluation for progress. 
7. Monitor treatment plan and adjust as needed. Sometimes plans have to be altered several times to find the best solution for everyone involved. If all of the above options fail, direct rehoming may be considered (rather than a shelter).

 

By working with your vet and going through a process of elimination (no pun intended!), it is possible to discover why your cat is acting inappropriately and fix the issue before rehoming becomes a serious consideration. 

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Separation Anxiety

   

One of the most common behavioral complaints we receive is a dog that barks incessantly when the owners are away or is destructive when left alone. These dogs may urinate, defected, bark, howl, chew, dig, or even try to go through glass to escape and get to their owners! This can cause not only destruction to the house but sometimes injury to the pet as well.  

Many times, the reason behind this behavior is separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is triggered when a dog recognizes cues that an owner is getting ready to leave for a period of time, and the dog subsequently becomes increasingly more upset about being left alone. Resolving the anxiety involves teaching the dog to tolerate being left home alone as well as slowly reconditioning him to the idea that fear and anxiety does not need to be present and that being alone can be ok.

Common symptoms of separation anxiety:

• urinating or defecating while you are away, especially in a dog that has been completely housebroken
• persistent barking or howling
• destructive behavior to furniture, door frames, window sills, or dog crates 
• constant pacing and drooling along a specific path

While this is not a compete list, these are the most common signs, and they can occur in any combination. These behaviors may result in self injury, including broken teeth, cut pads, or other abrasions as a dog attempts to escape his perceived confinement and get back to his owners.  

Why does a dog have separation anxiety?
No one has yet identified exactly why certain dogs develop this condition and others do not. Separation anxiety is most common in situations where a dog has been shifted between several homes, there is a loss of someone very important to the dog, there are changes to the family schedule (especially when the dog is used to having people home and then they are gone for long hours), the family moves to a new house or neighborhood, or there are changes in the number of people living in the household.  

What to do if you think your dog has separation anxiety
First have your dog examined by a veterinarian to rule out any potential medical causes for the behaviors. Urinary tract infections, diabetes, kidney disease, Cushing’s disease, and neurologic problems, among others, can cause similar signs and symptoms. Often bloodwork will be done to rule out some of the medical conditions as well as access whether the body is well enough to handle anti-anxiety medications if they are needed.  

Treatment

Treatment for separation anxiety always involves desensitization and counter-conditioning.

Desensitizing involves teaching your dog to get used to certain "leaving" cues, such as jingling your keys or putting on your shoes, without you actually leaving the house. Once the dog learns that these cues aren't tied to anything negative, the cues are reset to a neutral status that doesn't elicit an anxious response.

Counter-conditioning takes retraining to the next level by teaching your dog to associate your departure with a positive experience.  In more mild cases, you can counter-condition your dog to associate your leaving with the receipt of a favorite toy or a treat-stuffed KONG.  This can provide distraction as well as a pleasurable experience for your dog while you are away.

With any reconditioning, it is important to gradually expose your dog to the initial cues that you will be leaving (i.e. putting on your shoes) without actually leaving the house. Then, over time, you can progress through the cycle of your departure, perhaps picking up your keys or coat, to the point where you can walk out the door and back in again without your dog reacting in a negative manner.  Finally, start increasing the amount of time that you are gone from the house.

Consulting your veterinarian or a board-certified behaviorist (a veterinarian who specializes in behavior) can be extremely helpful in initially establishing a successful program for desensitization and counter-conditioning. Any program requires a large amount of time and commitment. The key is going slow to reteach your dog that being left alone is not upsetting.

Additional Tactics
Some dogs have difficulties responding to just counter-conditioning alone. They may require adjustments to your schedule, such as getting a pet sitter to come visit or taking your dog to doggie daycare, to help in the process. Additionally, you want to make sure these dogs are getting plenty of exercise and are given jobs or enriching toys to help keep their mind active. 

Medication
At some point, medications may be of benefit. While they are not always required life long, medications can help aid in desensitization and positive reconditioning. It may take several tries to find the right medication or dose, as each dog is unique. Sometimes, you can wean your dog off medication once he become more comfortable.

Sticking with it

Separation anxiety is not only difficult on your dog, it is also difficult on you! Don’t give up! Just keep trying, and be patient. It can take a great deal of repetition to convince your dog that their fear can go away.  Sometimes it takes some extra creativity. At the end of the day, remember that the separation anxiety stems from how much your dog loves you and how upset they are when you leave. Your dog means no harm, and they only want to be with you.

In conclusion:
Dogs are some of our most loyal and loving companions. My first Labrador, before Shelby, developed separation anxiety after our Yorkie was let out of our yard and ran away. Even a year later, after he was returned, my Lab was never the same.  I went through everything with him, from behavior clinics to medications and counter-conditioning. Although it helped a bit, I had to accept that leaving him alone would no longer be an option. He could not be crated or alone without hurting himself, so instead he went to daycare everyday.

All I can tell you is that he was the best friend I could have ever asked for.  Despite this extreme disability to both our lives, he has left Shelby some pretty big shoes to fill. These dogs are full of love, but they sometimes need extreme understanding. Be patient and love them…..they are worth it!!!

Inappropriate Elimination Part II: Canines

Image courtesy of Mister GC at freedigitalphotos.net

House soiling is a very common problem, affecting up to 37 percent of dogs. As mentioned in our previous post about cats, house soiling can be either behavioral or medical in nature. Common medical problems that can lead to house soiling include diabetes, kidney disease, parasites, and dietary issues. Behavioral causes can range from insufficient house training to submissive behavior, excitement, territoriality, and anxiety. 

The first place to start is with an evaluation by your veterinarian to rule out any medical issue and to discuss possible behavior problems and solutions. Your veterinarian may recommend blood work, a urinalysis, and/or a fecal examination to rule out certain conditions. Sometimes, radiographs or an ultrasound is warranted. 

Treatment for inappropriate elimination in dogs revolves around first treating any underlying medical conditions, neutering if recommended, and/or training and behavioral modification. Careful monitoring of the dog and where he seems to prefer to go to the bathroom in the house in addition to noting any routines or interactions with other animals or people that seem to occur prior to house soiling can help you and your veterinarian determine the possible cause and proper treatment/behavior modification.

Inappropriate Elimination Part I: Felines

"Inappropriate Elimination", or urinating or defecating in inappropriate places, is the most common behavior problem reported by cat owners. From urination and/or defecation outside the litter box to urine spraying throughout the house, this is understandably an issue that can cause a lot of angst among cat owners.

Why do cats eliminate outside of the litter box? 
Although people commonly think this is a sign of revenge, that is not the case. Sometimes there can be underlying medical issues, such as inflammation or infection of the urinary tract that make it painful to go or inflammation of the colon or intestines. These can lead to increased frequency or urgency and decreased control of eliminations. 

In older or disabled pets, we also often see mobility changes that affect a cat's ability to get in and out of the litter box. Other times, litter box aversions can develop after something scary or repelling (perhaps a noise, a harsh odor, or a surprise attack from another pet in the household) results in a cat associating a negative experience with the litter box. Sometimes the root cause is simply an inappropriately sized box, dirty litter, a change to a different litter, or an inconvenient location of the box (at least in the eyes of your cat).  

What about urine spraying?

Urine spraying is another very common problem. This typically male cat behavior is often used to establish territorial boundaries, but it can be a result of frustration or stress. Most commonly, unneutered males are the main culprits.

What can I do? 
First, identify which cat in the household is having the problem, and take that cat to the veterinarian to rule out any medical problems.

Then, as long as everything checks out ok, analyze where your cat is going to the bathroom to try and find a common thread. Does he seem to prefer a particular texture? Is he using a location far away from other cats or the hustle and bustle of the rest of the house? If you have multiple boxes, is there one he prefers over the others? What makes that one different?

Some of the most common solutions for litter box aversion include:

• Trying a different litter (scent, texture, type)
• Changing the box size and/or location
• Changing the number of boxes available. You should ideally have one more box than the total number of cats in the house. 
• Adding or removing a cover from the litter box.

To discourage your pet from continuing to use an inappropriate area, make sure you are thoroughly cleaning and using an odor neutralizer anywhere there is inappropriate elimination. 

For spraying, consider neutering your cat (if he is not already). Try to determine if there is an outside influence, such as another cat that may be causing stress or territoriality, and make every attempt to eliminate that stress or deter the outside cat from coming on your property. Close blinds or shades if possible. 

If frustration or boredom seems to be the cause, consider increasing the amount of one-on-one playtime or adding toys to stimulate your cat when you are not around. You can also try placing newspaper in areas you want to discourage him from spraying (the sound is a deterrent). Putting your cat's food in the area where he is inappropriately eliminating and playing with your cat in the area may also help, in addition to decreasing access to the area when you aren't around.

More information can be found at Cornell Feline Housesoiling