June is National Pet Preparedness Month

June is National Pet Preparedness Month, a time dedicated to making sure if a natural disaster strikes, you have an evacuation plan in place for the whole family including your pets! Predicting when (or how badly) weather may strike is very difficult. But having a plan in place ahead of time makes for much safer and smoother sailing if the weather tables turn and you have to evacuate.

If you already have an “Emergency Bag” or evacuation pack ready, great! Here's your reminder to replace any old food and medication, update photos, and check emergency contact information. Don't have an Emergency Bag yet? Here are some items yours should include:

• At least 7 days worth of food and water for both you and your animal
• Extra food and water bowls
• Medications
• Extra collar or harness and a leash, plus a carrier for small pets
• Clean up supplies (i.e. disinfectants, towels or paper towels, plastic bags)
• A flashlight
• Blankets
• Toys and chews
• Updated copies of medical records and a recent photo of your pet
• Contact information for local veterinarians, pet friendly hotels and shelters, and out of town family members willing to take in your pets in case of an emergency
• First aid kit with pet-specific supplies

Don't forget to store your Emergency Bag somewhere easily accessible and ready to take at a moment's notice. It won't help anyone if your bag is stored in the back closet behind all the holiday decorations! Also, don’t forget to rotate any water or food regularly, and try to buy canned food that has a pop-top for easy opening.

For more information, visit https://www.ready.gov/animals

Happy Chip Your Pet Month!

Pets with microchips are more than twice as likely to find their way home than pets that aren't. Unfortunately, the vast majority of America's pets still are not microchipped. If those pets get lost, they can't tell whoever finds them where they live. A microchip can. Here's how it works:

A microchip is a tiny implant about the size of a grain of rice that is implanted under the skin between the shoulder blades. Each microchip is coded with unique ID number, almost like a social security number for pets. Unlike a collar, tattoo, or tag, a microchip will never wear out, break, or become difficult to read, and its information cannot be altered. Although microchips don't work like a GPS, meaning you can't use them to track down your pet's exact location, a microchip can be quickly scanned by a universal scanner at any shelter or vet's office, instantly linking your pet with your contact information so they can be returned home safely.

Is it safe? Microchips are specially designed to stay in place and not migrate through the body. They also are made with nonreactive materials so the body doesn't even know one has been implanted, and they do not contain any batteries or chemicals. A microchip only emits a signal when in the presence of a microchip scanner.

Does it hurt? The implantation process itself is actually very similar to a routine shot and only takes a few seconds. In fact, it can be done during a regular office visit. Your pet will feel a brief pinch from the needle, and that's it! There is no recovery time or side effects, other than some mild soreness at the injection site.

Is it expensive? Microchipping generally costs around $30-$50 including registration.

Is there an annual fee to stay registered? There is a one-time registration fee for any chip in order to store your contact information. This fee covers lifetime registration for your pet in the online database. After that, many companies will offer extended protection packages that include things like distributing "Lost Pet" flyers to local shelters on your behalf or transporting your pet back home after he is located, even if it is several towns (or states!) away. These extras are simply that, though, extras. After the first year, which automatically includes these freebies, don't feel obligated to pay a subscription fee if you don't want to.

If your pet is not already microchipped, we strongly encourage you to think about it, and not just because it is "Chip Your Pet" Month. If your pet goes missing, there is no more reliable or affordable way to make sure he gets returned to you safe and sound. Call us today to schedule an appointment!

6 Common Pet Emergencies and How to Handle Them

April is National Pet First Aid Awareness Month. So, since emergencies can and do happen unexpectedly, here are key things you should know about 6 of the most common emergency situations. Of course, you should always contact your veterinarian as soon as you notice that something is wrong with your pet. The tips below are great for providing short term aid until you can get your pet to a professional, but please do not try to fix the problem yourself!

1. Choking or Airway Obstruction.

Airway obstruction is one of the most common pet emergencies. Sometimes there are obvious signs, such as extreme difficulty breathing, gagging, or coughing. In other cases the symptoms may be more subtle, like excessive pawing at the mouth. Although you don't want to waste time if your pet is in serious distress, the first step is to look into your pet's mouth to see if you can spot any foreign objects blocking her airway. If you see something and your pet can still pass some air, call your vet for advice. They may recommend that you try to gently remove the object with tweezers or pliers, but be very careful! You don't want to push the object further down or put your fingers in your pet's mouth where you might getting bitten.

If no air is passing through, you can attempt to dislodge the object with a few sharp whacks between the shoulderblades or quick abdominal thrusts, similar to the human Heimlich maneuver. If you have a small dog or cat, carefully inverting your pet so her hind end is upward and her head is down will allow gravity to help you out as well. Don't want waste too much time trying to solve the problem on your own, however, if your pet is in distress. Your best bet is to seek immediate medical attention.

2. Fractures.

Severe lameness or the outright inability to use a limb is usually the first sign of a fracture. Pets with potential fractures should be seen immediately, especially if you notice any bleeding! If you suspect a fracture, muzzle your pet before you try to move him or her. If you don't have a muzzle, some old pantyhose or the sleeve of a sweatshirt can do the trick. Fractures are extremely painful and may cause even a docile dog to try to bite. Then, call your vet and head right over. Try to move the fractured area as little as possible. A stretcher (or a makeshift stretcher out of a door or a rubbermade container lid) may come in handy.

3. Seizures.

Seizures look really scary, but your best course of action is to let the seizure run its course. Move away any hard or heavy objects, like tables or bookshelves, so your pet doesn't bump into them and comfort him by resting a hand on his side. You can also place towels or blankets near him for added protection. DO NOT attempt to restrain your pet or reach into his mouth, as this may cause injury to one or the both of you. Seizuring pets are in no danger of choking on their tongue. However, they may flail or unintentionally bite you since all of their muscles clamp down tightly during a seizure. Do your best to remember key details about your pet's behavior during the seizure so you can inform your vet: What did it look like? Was your pet paddling, drooling, stiff? How long did the seizure last? It often feels like seizures last for hours, but the more accurately you can time them, the better. As soon as it’s over, call your veterinarian to get instructions on what to do next.

4. External Bleeding.

Muzzle your pet first, then try to examine the injured area. It is important to keep your pet as calm as possible, as the more active he is the more he will bleed. Apply firm pressure to the affected area using gauze or clean towels for at least 3 minutes or until bleeding stops. If there is severe bleeding from one of your pet's legs, you can try to use an elastic band around a clean t-shirt as a tourniquet (place it above the wound) while applying direct pressure to the wound itself. Once you’ve stopped the bleeding, seek veterinary attention as soon as possible.

5. Poisoning.

Poisoning is much more difficult to identify, as there are a wide range of symptoms depending on the toxin. Vomiting, convulsions, diarrhea, and weakness are some of the most common symptoms. Take action right away and call your local veterinarian or ASPCA Poison Control if you have any suspicions that your pet may have gotten into something he shouldn't have. If you know the source of the poisoning, bring it with you to the vet or snap a picture of the product label. It is very important to provide your vet with as many details as possible, including the exact product name, how much your pet may have ingested (and how long ago), and a list of active ingredients, among others.

6. Collapse.

If you discover your pet to be unconscious, administering CPR can save his life. First, look/listen to see if your pet is breathing. If not, begin rescue breaths by placing him on his right side, gently extending his neck, holding his jaws closed, and forming a seal by placing your mouth over his nose (or nose and mouth, for small dogs and cats). Blow into his nostrils every 3 seconds, enough so you see his chest rise. Make sure that no air escapes between his mouth and nose.

If you also don’t feel a heartbeat, deliver chest compressions over the left side of his chest (feel for the heartbeat along the left side of his chest just behind his elbow or on the inside of his rear leg where it meets the body). Give 3 chest compressions every two seconds, aiming to depress the chest 1/4 - 1/2 way down each time. DO NOT attempt chest compressions if there is a heartbeat! Continue alternating chest compressions with rescue breaths, about 10-15 compressions between each breath, as you travel to the nearest animal hospital or until your pet begins breathing again on his own.

Most information gathered from the American Red Cross article "Pet CPR" originally published http://www.redcross.org/take-a-class/cpr/perfoming-cpr/pet-cpr

Feline House Soiling Behaviors

72% of cats surrendered to animal shelters are euthanized.

Many of are surrendered because of house-soiling issues. 

 
Feline house-soiling and marking behaviors are some of the most common complaints of modern cat owners. In fact, 66% of owners feel their cats are soiling out of spite. The reasons why a cat may choose to not use the litter box are numerous, which makes tackling the issue seem daunting, but the solution is out there! 

 

Here are the steps your vet will take to help pinpoint and solve the issue:

AAFP and ISFM Guidelines for Diagnosing and Solving House-Soiling Behavior in Cats

1. Take a Patient history. By getting the full history and a timeline of when the issue started we can begin to determine whether there is a medical or behavioral basis for the behavior. We will ask you questions like when the soiling started, where the accidents are occurring, how often it happens, if your cat is using the litter box at all, and if anything changed in your household dynamics or habits.  Noting the ratio between cats and litterboxes, where litterboxes are kept, and where the house-soiling occurs is also helpful. 
   
2. Thorough physical exam to look for medical causes.
   
3.  Additional testing or procedures based on history and exam findings.  Your vet will likely run tests to rule out common medical causes for these behaviors, such as kidney disease, urinary tract infections, and arthritis.
4. Make a Diagnosis. If any abnormalities show up in the labwork, those will be considered first as potential causes. If everything medically checks out, however, a diagnosis of marking behavior can be made.  Cats may mark for various reasons including anxiety, stress, or simply feeling the need to make a “calling card” for other cats.  At this point we consider household interactions and other cats along with any changes in litter boxes or litter, which can cause problems.
5. Treatment - Treatment involves addressing the underlying medical issues as well as tackling the behavioral component. One major consideration is determining your cat's optimal litter box scenario (number, location, size, covered/open, litter, how often the box is cleaned).  According to the AAFP there are five pillars of a healthy feline environment: (1) a safe hideaway place; (2) separate environments for resources (i.e. food,water, play, rest); (3) opportunity for play and predatory behavior; (4) positive and consistent human-cat social interaction; and (5) an environment that respects the importance of the cat’s sense of smell.  Your veterinarian may suggest some of the following: synthetic pheromones, removing negative triggers, using positive reinforcement, or adding medications/nutraceuticals.  It is important to make sure the number of litter boxes is appropriate as well, and that access to the litter box is safe (providing both visual security and separation from other cats).  It is also important to clean any marked areas frequently and thoroughly to discourage remarking.
6. Follow-up - Make sure that the treatment plan is appropriate with regular followup and reevaluation for progress. 
7. Monitor treatment plan and adjust as needed. Sometimes plans have to be altered several times to find the best solution for everyone involved. If all of the above options fail, direct rehoming may be considered (rather than a shelter).

 

By working with your vet and going through a process of elimination (no pun intended!), it is possible to discover why your cat is acting inappropriately and fix the issue before rehoming becomes a serious consideration. 

For more information visit PetsMatter blog

Cats and Acupuncture

Although acupuncture can be used on most animals, and we are happy to provide this newly popular service to any pet in need at NorthPaws (even a guinea pig!), it seems that our most common patients are dogs. Therefore, when we get the opportunity to use acupuncture on cats, it is a special treat. 

Meet Hunter – the first acupuncture cat at NorthPaws!  Hunter presented with some nasal discharge and early signs of kidney disease. After three sessions of acupuncture, he is proving to be one of the friendliest, easiest, and best patients yet and is responding very well to his weekly treatments.  Way to go Hunter!! You show those dogs how it’s done!