Stray Animals

When you see an animal loose and apparently all alone, what do you do? Do you immediately stop to help, or do you drive off and hope that its owner is close by? If you are like me, you  instinctively have the urge to see if you can help in some way. Although the safest method is often to call for backup (animal control, for example), here are some tips on what you can do if you find a stray while you’re alone and want to try to help out.

• First, if you are driving, find a safe place to park. You don’t want to cause an accident while trying to save an animal. Make sure you look in all of your mirrors and blind spots before pulling over and do not stop in the middle of the street. Turn off your car and put the hazard lights on.
• Remember that a frightened and potentially sick or injured animal can behave unpredictably. Be cautious and expect that any move that you make can potentially spook the animal, causing him to run or hide. If at any point the animal looks or acts threatening, or if you feel uneasy about the situation, stay a safe distance away, or go back to your car and call for help. Your local shelter or veterinarians office should be able to help.
• If the animal is quiet enough for you to approach, speak calmly and make sure the animal can see you at all times as you get closer. Try to entice the animal to come to you (food may help) rather than approaching it directly.
• Ideally, try to coax the animal directly into your car. Do not corner the animal or attempt to grab him suddenly, as this may make him panic and try to bite.
• Call for backup. Call either the police department or your local animal control center, and report the situation. They will come out to help.  
• Scan for a microchip. Any vet or animal shelter should have a scanner. If the pet is microchipped, that is the fastest way to locate his owners. (For more info about microchipping, check out our Chip Your Pet! post).
• Take the animal to a safe place. This may be the local shelter (which is often the first place a worried owner will look), or some people opt to take the animal home until its owner is located. Just be extra careful, as there is no way of knowing how the animal may react to other people, pets, or a strange, new environment. 
• Post signs around the area where you found the animal as well as on local social media to raise awareness that the animal is safe and is looking for its home. If you turned the animal into the shelter, it is ok to check in periodically or leave your contact information in case the owner is not located right away.

We all want pets to be returned to their homes as quickly and safely as possible. By following these steps, you can help make sure a lost pet is reunited with his family without endangering either of you. Just remember, if the animal is growling or looks angry, its best to call in the professionals.

June is National Pet Preparedness Month

June is National Pet Preparedness Month, a time dedicated to making sure if a natural disaster strikes, you have an evacuation plan in place for the whole family including your pets! Predicting when (or how badly) weather may strike is very difficult. But having a plan in place ahead of time makes for much safer and smoother sailing if the weather tables turn and you have to evacuate.

If you already have an “Emergency Bag” or evacuation pack ready, great! Here's your reminder to replace any old food and medication, update photos, and check emergency contact information. Don't have an Emergency Bag yet? Here are some items yours should include:

• At least 7 days worth of food and water for both you and your animal
• Extra food and water bowls
• Medications
• Extra collar or harness and a leash, plus a carrier for small pets
• Clean up supplies (i.e. disinfectants, towels or paper towels, plastic bags)
• A flashlight
• Blankets
• Toys and chews
• Updated copies of medical records and a recent photo of your pet
• Contact information for local veterinarians, pet friendly hotels and shelters, and out of town family members willing to take in your pets in case of an emergency
• First aid kit with pet-specific supplies

Don't forget to store your Emergency Bag somewhere easily accessible and ready to take at a moment's notice. It won't help anyone if your bag is stored in the back closet behind all the holiday decorations! Also, don’t forget to rotate any water or food regularly, and try to buy canned food that has a pop-top for easy opening.

For more information, visit https://www.ready.gov/animals

Happy Chip Your Pet Month!

Pets with microchips are more than twice as likely to find their way home than pets that aren't. Unfortunately, the vast majority of America's pets still are not microchipped. If those pets get lost, they can't tell whoever finds them where they live. A microchip can. Here's how it works:

A microchip is a tiny implant about the size of a grain of rice that is implanted under the skin between the shoulder blades. Each microchip is coded with unique ID number, almost like a social security number for pets. Unlike a collar, tattoo, or tag, a microchip will never wear out, break, or become difficult to read, and its information cannot be altered. Although microchips don't work like a GPS, meaning you can't use them to track down your pet's exact location, a microchip can be quickly scanned by a universal scanner at any shelter or vet's office, instantly linking your pet with your contact information so they can be returned home safely.

Is it safe? Microchips are specially designed to stay in place and not migrate through the body. They also are made with nonreactive materials so the body doesn't even know one has been implanted, and they do not contain any batteries or chemicals. A microchip only emits a signal when in the presence of a microchip scanner.

Does it hurt? The implantation process itself is actually very similar to a routine shot and only takes a few seconds. In fact, it can be done during a regular office visit. Your pet will feel a brief pinch from the needle, and that's it! There is no recovery time or side effects, other than some mild soreness at the injection site.

Is it expensive? Microchipping generally costs around $30-$50 including registration.

Is there an annual fee to stay registered? There is a one-time registration fee for any chip in order to store your contact information. This fee covers lifetime registration for your pet in the online database. After that, many companies will offer extended protection packages that include things like distributing "Lost Pet" flyers to local shelters on your behalf or transporting your pet back home after he is located, even if it is several towns (or states!) away. These extras are simply that, though, extras. After the first year, which automatically includes these freebies, don't feel obligated to pay a subscription fee if you don't want to.

If your pet is not already microchipped, we strongly encourage you to think about it, and not just because it is "Chip Your Pet" Month. If your pet goes missing, there is no more reliable or affordable way to make sure he gets returned to you safe and sound. Call us today to schedule an appointment!

6 Common Pet Emergencies and How to Handle Them

April is National Pet First Aid Awareness Month. So, since emergencies can and do happen unexpectedly, here are key things you should know about 6 of the most common emergency situations. Of course, you should always contact your veterinarian as soon as you notice that something is wrong with your pet. The tips below are great for providing short term aid until you can get your pet to a professional, but please do not try to fix the problem yourself!

1. Choking or Airway Obstruction.

Airway obstruction is one of the most common pet emergencies. Sometimes there are obvious signs, such as extreme difficulty breathing, gagging, or coughing. In other cases the symptoms may be more subtle, like excessive pawing at the mouth. Although you don't want to waste time if your pet is in serious distress, the first step is to look into your pet's mouth to see if you can spot any foreign objects blocking her airway. If you see something and your pet can still pass some air, call your vet for advice. They may recommend that you try to gently remove the object with tweezers or pliers, but be very careful! You don't want to push the object further down or put your fingers in your pet's mouth where you might getting bitten.

If no air is passing through, you can attempt to dislodge the object with a few sharp whacks between the shoulderblades or quick abdominal thrusts, similar to the human Heimlich maneuver. If you have a small dog or cat, carefully inverting your pet so her hind end is upward and her head is down will allow gravity to help you out as well. Don't want waste too much time trying to solve the problem on your own, however, if your pet is in distress. Your best bet is to seek immediate medical attention.

2. Fractures.

Severe lameness or the outright inability to use a limb is usually the first sign of a fracture. Pets with potential fractures should be seen immediately, especially if you notice any bleeding! If you suspect a fracture, muzzle your pet before you try to move him or her. If you don't have a muzzle, some old pantyhose or the sleeve of a sweatshirt can do the trick. Fractures are extremely painful and may cause even a docile dog to try to bite. Then, call your vet and head right over. Try to move the fractured area as little as possible. A stretcher (or a makeshift stretcher out of a door or a rubbermade container lid) may come in handy.

3. Seizures.

Seizures look really scary, but your best course of action is to let the seizure run its course. Move away any hard or heavy objects, like tables or bookshelves, so your pet doesn't bump into them and comfort him by resting a hand on his side. You can also place towels or blankets near him for added protection. DO NOT attempt to restrain your pet or reach into his mouth, as this may cause injury to one or the both of you. Seizuring pets are in no danger of choking on their tongue. However, they may flail or unintentionally bite you since all of their muscles clamp down tightly during a seizure. Do your best to remember key details about your pet's behavior during the seizure so you can inform your vet: What did it look like? Was your pet paddling, drooling, stiff? How long did the seizure last? It often feels like seizures last for hours, but the more accurately you can time them, the better. As soon as it’s over, call your veterinarian to get instructions on what to do next.

4. External Bleeding.

Muzzle your pet first, then try to examine the injured area. It is important to keep your pet as calm as possible, as the more active he is the more he will bleed. Apply firm pressure to the affected area using gauze or clean towels for at least 3 minutes or until bleeding stops. If there is severe bleeding from one of your pet's legs, you can try to use an elastic band around a clean t-shirt as a tourniquet (place it above the wound) while applying direct pressure to the wound itself. Once you’ve stopped the bleeding, seek veterinary attention as soon as possible.

5. Poisoning.

Poisoning is much more difficult to identify, as there are a wide range of symptoms depending on the toxin. Vomiting, convulsions, diarrhea, and weakness are some of the most common symptoms. Take action right away and call your local veterinarian or ASPCA Poison Control if you have any suspicions that your pet may have gotten into something he shouldn't have. If you know the source of the poisoning, bring it with you to the vet or snap a picture of the product label. It is very important to provide your vet with as many details as possible, including the exact product name, how much your pet may have ingested (and how long ago), and a list of active ingredients, among others.

6. Collapse.

If you discover your pet to be unconscious, administering CPR can save his life. First, look/listen to see if your pet is breathing. If not, begin rescue breaths by placing him on his right side, gently extending his neck, holding his jaws closed, and forming a seal by placing your mouth over his nose (or nose and mouth, for small dogs and cats). Blow into his nostrils every 3 seconds, enough so you see his chest rise. Make sure that no air escapes between his mouth and nose.

If you also don’t feel a heartbeat, deliver chest compressions over the left side of his chest (feel for the heartbeat along the left side of his chest just behind his elbow or on the inside of his rear leg where it meets the body). Give 3 chest compressions every two seconds, aiming to depress the chest 1/4 - 1/2 way down each time. DO NOT attempt chest compressions if there is a heartbeat! Continue alternating chest compressions with rescue breaths, about 10-15 compressions between each breath, as you travel to the nearest animal hospital or until your pet begins breathing again on his own.

Most information gathered from the American Red Cross article "Pet CPR" originally published http://www.redcross.org/take-a-class/cpr/perfoming-cpr/pet-cpr

Benefits of Pets and Pet Therapy

From mental health to physical health, animals today are helping people in more ways than ever before, and not just as registered service animals or guide dogs. It is not uncommon anymore to see a Therapy Dog visiting a nursing home or school, for example, or you may come across a physical therapist who uses a canine companion to help motivate her patients. Whether a certified therapy animal or not, though, pets in general have an amazing impact on our physical and mental well-being. Here are just a few examples:

            Mental:

·         Lifts spirits and lessens depression

·         Decreases feelings of isolation and alienation

·         Encourages communication

·         Provides comfort

·         Increases socialization

·         Reduces boredom

·         Lowers anxiety

·         Helps children overcome speech and emotional disorders

·         Creates motivation to aid in faster recovery, either mentally or physically

·         Reduces loneliness

Physical:

·         Lowers blood pressure

·         Improves cardiovascular health

·         Releases endorphins (oxytocin), which have a calming effect

·         Diminishes overall physical pain

·         Petting an animal produces an automatic sense of relaxation, which can reduce the amount of medication a person needs

Reading:

·         Helps children focus

·         Improves literacy skills

·         Provides non-stressful, non-judgmental audience

·         Increases self confidence, reduces self-consciousness

Physical Therapy:

·         Increases joint movement and improves recovery time

·         Maintains or increases motor skills

·         Provides motivation to move, stretch, and exercise longer

For more information on Therapy Dogs and Certification, visit Therapy Dogs United.

Hello Autumn!

Autumn is finally here!

Many of us welcome the changing leaf colors, cooler temperatures, and pumpkin-flavored, well, everything. It is a sign that the fall season is finally here! However, there are a few hazards pet owners should keep in mind:

Ticks: Although tick populations tend to dwindle over the summer months, they will often crop up again during the fall. Ticks like to live in long grass and wooded areas. Use a comb to check your animal for ticks every time he goes outside, and don't skimp on the preventative just because the weather is getting cooler. Deer ticks are still out there and can spread Lyme disease, which can be just as much of a danger to you as it is for your pet. We recommend continuing to use flea/tick preventative throughout the fall and, ideally, year-round.

Temperature: Fall is an interesting time for pet care. Depending on where you live, you may have to worry about everything from heatstroke to frostbite (although hopefully not back-to-back!). In general, make sure that your pet has plenty of access to water both outside and inside throughout the fall season so he can regulate his intake as needed. Just because the weather might have gotten cooler, it does not mean that your pet has a decreased need for proper hydration.

Halloween: Everyone loves a pet in costume! But be sure to keep your pet's fun and safety in mind. Some costumes can impair your pet's motion or hearing, and others have small pieces that could be choking hazards. After trick-or-treating, make sure that candy is stored out of your pet's reach, perhaps into a cabinet. Candy smells and tastes delicious! But it can be very dangerous for pets.

Grooming: Many pets will shed their summer coats at the beginning of fall. Regular brushing for those with long hair will prevent serious matting, and pets with shorter hair will appreciate a good brushing to help remove remaining summer hair. If you cannot commit to regular coat care, talk to your veterinarian or groomer about clipping or shaving options that are appropriate for the weather.

Mushrooms and seasonal plants: Fall is mushroom and mum season, both of which can be toxic! Luckily, most mushrooms have little or no toxicity. However, some mushrooms can present life threatening problems, and it is often difficult for an untrained eye to pick out which is which. Mums also may appear benign, but they can cause stumbling, skin inflammation, increased salivation, vomiting, and diarrhea if ingested. The best way to prevent ingestion of potentially dangerous plants is to keep pets well away from any mushrooms or mums. If you think that your pet has eaten a mushroom or a mum plant, call your veterinarian or animal poison control for advice. 

Watch out for Wildlife: Autumn is the season when snakes and other animals prepare for hibernation. This can increase the possibility of bites to your pets. Although there are no native venomous snakes in Rhode Island, timber rattlers and copperheads can still be found in nearby Connecticut and Massachusetts. And it’s not only snakes that you need to be aware of. Mice, rats, and other creatures may startle more easily as they are trying to bed down for the winter. As always, it never hurts to call your veterinarian if you have any concerns about a potential bite.

School Supplies: Remind your children to be careful with their supplies! Items like glue sticks, pencils, and magic markers are generally considered to have low toxicity, but pets may mistake them for chew tows and they can cause gastrointestinal upset and blockages if ingested.

Diabetes

Diabetes in dogs is caused by either a lack of the hormone insulin or an inadequate response to insulin.  When a dog does not produce insulin or cannot utilize it normally,  the blood sugar levels elevate. This results in an elevated blood glucose level - hyperglycemia - which can then produce many problems with the body.  It is important to know that diabetes is a manageable condition and that many diabetics live a long and happy life.  

Most dogs get Type 1 diabetes, in which the pancreas is no longer able to produce enough insulin.  These dogs require insulin therapy. Some breeds of dogs are more prone to diabetes or are at greater risk of developing it.  These breeds include Australian Terriers, Standard and Miniature Schnauzers, Dachshunds, Poodles, Keeshonds, and Samoyeds.

Most common symptoms of diabetes in dogs:

• Change in appetite
• Excessive thirst/increase in water consumption
• Weight loss
• Increased urination
• Unusually sweet-smelling or fruity breath
• Lethargy
• Dehydration
• Urinary tract infections
• Vomiting
• Cataract formation, blindness

Diagnosis:

To diagnose diabetes, usually a history, physical exam, bloodwork and urinalysis will be performed by your veterinarian.

Treatment:

Diabetes is treated by addressing any complicating symptoms along with adding insulin therapy.  Some dogs are very ill when first diagnosed and can require hospitalization to start regulating their blood sugar.  Dogs that are more stable will be started on insulin therapy and a proper diet to help prevent glucose spikes.  

Although insulin injections seem very scary at first to some owners, once you have had a diabetic consult and you see how easy it can be to administer insulin, most owners are quite comfortable giving the injections.  Your veterinarian will also go over ways you can monitor glucose and ketone levels in the urine.  Sometimes you can be shown how to perform blood glucose testing at home.  

During treatment it is important to try to keep your dog's blood sugar at a constant level throughout the day. The means making sure your dog will get insulin at the same time each day along with regular meals, maintaining a regular exercise program, and keeping the amount of food and treats very consistent in order to avoid spikes or dips in blood sugar levels. Blood sugar levels are directly related to the food that is consumed.  

At some point after initial diagnosis, you will need to set up a time to have your dog reexamined by your veterinarian and have a blood glucose curve performed to monitor how therapy is going.  This test will help your veterinarian determine if any adjustments need to be made to the amount of insulin your dog receives.  

If your dog is showing any of the signs discussed above or if you have questions about diabetes, you should consult your veterinarian. Diabetes that is left untreated can lead to cataracts, urinary tract problem, or other serious issues including death.  When caught and treated early, however, diabetic dogs can lead healthy and full lives!

Separation Anxiety

   

One of the most common behavioral complaints we receive is a dog that barks incessantly when the owners are away or is destructive when left alone. These dogs may urinate, defected, bark, howl, chew, dig, or even try to go through glass to escape and get to their owners! This can cause not only destruction to the house but sometimes injury to the pet as well.  

Many times, the reason behind this behavior is separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is triggered when a dog recognizes cues that an owner is getting ready to leave for a period of time, and the dog subsequently becomes increasingly more upset about being left alone. Resolving the anxiety involves teaching the dog to tolerate being left home alone as well as slowly reconditioning him to the idea that fear and anxiety does not need to be present and that being alone can be ok.

Common symptoms of separation anxiety:

• urinating or defecating while you are away, especially in a dog that has been completely housebroken
• persistent barking or howling
• destructive behavior to furniture, door frames, window sills, or dog crates 
• constant pacing and drooling along a specific path

While this is not a compete list, these are the most common signs, and they can occur in any combination. These behaviors may result in self injury, including broken teeth, cut pads, or other abrasions as a dog attempts to escape his perceived confinement and get back to his owners.  

Why does a dog have separation anxiety?
No one has yet identified exactly why certain dogs develop this condition and others do not. Separation anxiety is most common in situations where a dog has been shifted between several homes, there is a loss of someone very important to the dog, there are changes to the family schedule (especially when the dog is used to having people home and then they are gone for long hours), the family moves to a new house or neighborhood, or there are changes in the number of people living in the household.  

What to do if you think your dog has separation anxiety
First have your dog examined by a veterinarian to rule out any potential medical causes for the behaviors. Urinary tract infections, diabetes, kidney disease, Cushing’s disease, and neurologic problems, among others, can cause similar signs and symptoms. Often bloodwork will be done to rule out some of the medical conditions as well as access whether the body is well enough to handle anti-anxiety medications if they are needed.  

Treatment

Treatment for separation anxiety always involves desensitization and counter-conditioning.

Desensitizing involves teaching your dog to get used to certain "leaving" cues, such as jingling your keys or putting on your shoes, without you actually leaving the house. Once the dog learns that these cues aren't tied to anything negative, the cues are reset to a neutral status that doesn't elicit an anxious response.

Counter-conditioning takes retraining to the next level by teaching your dog to associate your departure with a positive experience.  In more mild cases, you can counter-condition your dog to associate your leaving with the receipt of a favorite toy or a treat-stuffed KONG.  This can provide distraction as well as a pleasurable experience for your dog while you are away.

With any reconditioning, it is important to gradually expose your dog to the initial cues that you will be leaving (i.e. putting on your shoes) without actually leaving the house. Then, over time, you can progress through the cycle of your departure, perhaps picking up your keys or coat, to the point where you can walk out the door and back in again without your dog reacting in a negative manner.  Finally, start increasing the amount of time that you are gone from the house.

Consulting your veterinarian or a board-certified behaviorist (a veterinarian who specializes in behavior) can be extremely helpful in initially establishing a successful program for desensitization and counter-conditioning. Any program requires a large amount of time and commitment. The key is going slow to reteach your dog that being left alone is not upsetting.

Additional Tactics
Some dogs have difficulties responding to just counter-conditioning alone. They may require adjustments to your schedule, such as getting a pet sitter to come visit or taking your dog to doggie daycare, to help in the process. Additionally, you want to make sure these dogs are getting plenty of exercise and are given jobs or enriching toys to help keep their mind active. 

Medication
At some point, medications may be of benefit. While they are not always required life long, medications can help aid in desensitization and positive reconditioning. It may take several tries to find the right medication or dose, as each dog is unique. Sometimes, you can wean your dog off medication once he become more comfortable.

Sticking with it

Separation anxiety is not only difficult on your dog, it is also difficult on you! Don’t give up! Just keep trying, and be patient. It can take a great deal of repetition to convince your dog that their fear can go away.  Sometimes it takes some extra creativity. At the end of the day, remember that the separation anxiety stems from how much your dog loves you and how upset they are when you leave. Your dog means no harm, and they only want to be with you.

In conclusion:
Dogs are some of our most loyal and loving companions. My first Labrador, before Shelby, developed separation anxiety after our Yorkie was let out of our yard and ran away. Even a year later, after he was returned, my Lab was never the same.  I went through everything with him, from behavior clinics to medications and counter-conditioning. Although it helped a bit, I had to accept that leaving him alone would no longer be an option. He could not be crated or alone without hurting himself, so instead he went to daycare everyday.

All I can tell you is that he was the best friend I could have ever asked for.  Despite this extreme disability to both our lives, he has left Shelby some pretty big shoes to fill. These dogs are full of love, but they sometimes need extreme understanding. Be patient and love them…..they are worth it!!!